(NOTE: Below is an English translation of the story linked to by a reader in the previous post. The above photo was taken
on Sat. 8 March 2008.)
"Disappearing Chongno P'imat-gol 'Taste Alley'”
by Song Shi-yun (5 March 2008, JoongAng Ilbo)
“P'imat-gol” is the roughly 2-3m wide alley running along Seoul’s Chongno 1-6 blocks, 18m north of Chongno. The name
originated from “the street for commoners to avoid (dignitaries riding) horses” in the Choson Period. The street including
the left and right and surrounding area is called “P’imat-gol” (P’imat Alley) and just the street itself is called “P’imat-gil”
(P’imat Street). P’imat-gol was formed together with Chongno, the central thoroughfare along the east-west axis of Choson
Period Seoul, and has endured 600 years’ hardship. Recently, with the large-scale development project(s) of the P’imat-gol
area, it is in grave danger of disappearing into history.
Disappearing P’imat-gol: Last month, a real-estate development company submitted a preliminary proposal to Seoul City,
saying: "We have a plan for the integrated development of the Ch’ongjin 12-16 area of Ch’ongjin-dong." The plan was to build
two 4,107-sq.-meter, 24-story twin buildings in the area, including Ch’ongjin-dong “Haejangguk (Hangover Soup) Alley” and
P’imat-gil. “Haejangguk Alley," including [the restaurant] "Ch’ongjin-ok" with 70 years’ history, is [located] here, as well as
the 70-year-old restaurant "Hanil-gwan" and P’imat-gil.
Last month on the 27th, Seoul City convened a “City Architecture Cooperation Committee” and reviewed the plan but delayed
[a decision on] the proposal. One committee member who requested anonymity said, "Because this development plan would
cause the disappearance of the deeply historical P’imat-gol and the famous site of Seoul where Haejangguk Alley is located,
the committee members had difficulty in deciding." If Seoul City doesn't point out any special suggestions to the developers
regarding the preliminary proposal, that means the answer is, “It’s fine to develop that area, [providing it’s] in accordance
with the relevant laws and regulations.”
According to the development plan, Hanil-gwan will be open until May, and Ch’ongjin-ok will be open only until July and then
relocate. “Seoul Hotel,” with 35 years’ history, already closed its doors at the end of last year, and at the moment a banner
reading “Removal Scheduled” has been placed outside [the front] of the building.
In Dec. 2004, Seoul City created “Architecture Guidelines” for the preservation of P’imat-gil, but it has been pointed out that they
are ineffective. The guidelines comprise the following: “In the case of developing around P’imat-gil, a width of at least 4 meters
of P’imat-gil should be preserved, and the space above the road should be able to take in light and ventilation.” Actually, as
long as just the physical form of “the street” is kept, it’s OK [to redevelop it]. In the case of Le Meilleur’s “Chongno Town,”
which was completed at the end of July last year, [despite] reflecting Seoul City’s guidelines, only the corridor shape of
P’imat-gil was kept. However, after the ground was covered with marble and both sides were surrounded by solid glass,
the old street mood has disappeared. A Seoul City person concerned said, "The preservation guidelines for P’imat-gil were
made too late. Moreover, the contents are too broad, and the legal grounds are too weak, so their binding power is difficult
to put into effect."
Additional redevelopment of P’imat-gol is also planned around the Ch’ongjin-dong area. In January, a private developer applied
for rezoning of the Ch’ongjin 2 and 3 sections (or lots), on the east side of Kyobo Life Building, in order to build a 24-story
building by binding the two areas together. In the direction of Insa-dong, Kongp’yong 15 and 16 sections (or lots) have already
passed a construction review, and all that remains is application for project authorization. Since the YMCA, Samsung Securities
and SC First Bank buildings were built on P’imat-gil prior to the guidelines, P’imat-gil has been broken up.
P’imat-gol, the origin of Haejangguk Alley: In the Choson Period, low-ranking government officials also liked to use P’imat-gil.
This is because when they were riding their horses along Chongno, they had to dismount and prostrate themselves when
meeting high-ranking government officials. Since P’imat-gil was a footpath for commoners, there were many taverns and
rice-soup shops for them. Because this rice soup became famous, “Haejangguk Alley” expanded out of P’imat-gil to today’s
Ch’ongjin-dong area.
From Chongno-4-ga to Chongno-6-ga, it was called “Lower P’imat’gol” since it was on the lower end of P’imat-gil. In this area,
fallen yangbans sometimes opened taverns in order to survive. Due to face (or honor), the owners who were [married] women
wouldn't show their face to customers, so these taverns were called “Nae’oe-jip” (lit., "a tavern where the opposite sex is
avoided").
Even now, there still remain some pubs where ordinary people with light pockets like to visit. On rainy days, the aromatic smell
of bindaeddok (mung-bean pancakes) in the alley beckons tipplers, poets and painters. |
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Pimatgol Daehaksal 
[re] "Disappearing Chongno P'imat-gol 'Taste Alley'" 
